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Lets Do A Broadhead Thread

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Post by Parkersdad Fri May 03, 2013 9:40 am

I have played with lots of Broad heads over the years from Muzzy to Slicktrick, Bloodrunners, and Spitfire. I am trying the Spitfire this year but I seem to always go back to Thunderhead. Now I like the Thunderhead razor made for carbon arrows. What is your go to head?

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Post by PineywoodsBow Fri May 03, 2013 10:22 am

havent found my go-to head yet, still looking. I have used Muzzy, slicktrick, Magnus, and carbon express. This year I am going to give the G5 Montec's a try...
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Post by bowonly Sat May 04, 2013 7:42 am

I found my go to broadhead not long after I began bowhunting..... Simmons Land Shark. They have never let me down! They're big, cut on contact, but they are not for the guy who just likes to pull a broadhead out of the package and use them. They have to be sharpened before use. And I'm perfectly fine with that, given their performance and indestructibility!


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Post by SlowBow Sat May 04, 2013 8:17 am

Never had a problem with Muzzy. Some folks say they have problems getting them to fly straight, I just think they need to learn tune their bows properly.

I use a big old heavy 125 grain 3 blade. Razor Sharp. I like being able to replace the blades with new ones, and not having to sharpen or replace the whole head after use. Saves you some money. I don't care how good you think you can sharpen steel, you never really get that factory edge back after shooting a broadhead.
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Post by PineywoodsBow Sat May 04, 2013 11:23 am

hey slowbow, I have heard that alot about having your bow "tuned" correctly can make any broadhead fly the same as your field points. What does this actually mean? How do you "tune" your bow?
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Post by illianabowhnter67 Sat May 04, 2013 3:14 pm

I've had great results with 125grn. muzzy 3 blade.Never had flight issues.

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Post by SlowBow Sat May 04, 2013 8:14 pm

You probably will never get field point accuracy from a fixed blade broadhead. But with a well tuned bow you can get pretty close.

Explaining bow tuning in short form could be difficult. Basically it involves making sure your arrow length and spine are correct for your draw and poundage, and making sure your cams are timed right. Cams slip out of time and destroy accuracy.

Those thing aside, tuning most often refers to paper tuning with field points to ensure your arrow is flying straight, not leaving the bow tail left or right, or high/low.

Shooting an arrow through paper at a distance of 5 or 6 feet and examining the tear in the paper, adjusting the nock point and rest until the arrow flight is straight and centered. When arrows leave your bow straight, then the broadhead will catch less air and fly straighter.

Many good articles online explain in detail how to do this.

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Post by whitetailwick Wed May 08, 2013 10:28 pm

1oo grain thunderhead,just what I started with and never changed. Never shot one in target,only game and have allways had pass thru.I bought some arrows from a guy that had some kind of two blade cut on contact heads,they made a hole like a 243 went through. So I think just about all would be good in close quarter hunting.

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Post by PineywoodsBow Thu May 09, 2013 2:07 pm

SlowBow wrote:You probably will never get field point accuracy from a fixed blade broadhead. But with a well tuned bow you can get pretty close.

Explaining bow tuning in short form could be difficult. Basically it involves making sure your arrow length and spine are correct for your draw and poundage, and making sure your cams are timed right. Cams slip out of time and destroy accuracy.

Those thing aside, tuning most often refers to paper tuning with field points to ensure your arrow is flying straight, not leaving the bow tail left or right, or high/low.

Shooting an arrow through paper at a distance of 5 or 6 feet and examining the tear in the paper, adjusting the nock point and rest until the arrow flight is straight and centered. When arrows leave your bow straight, then the broadhead will catch less air and fly straighter.

Many good articles online explain in detail how to do this.


thanks for the info, I'm going to look this up and do it. I have had my bow for 4years and have never done this, so I bet it needs to get done.
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Post by Cbigbear Fri May 10, 2013 1:07 pm

Piney check out this link it explains several different tuning methods - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eg_DxSEyEw

I've always just eyeball everything, skipped over the paper method & went straight to walk-back & then broadhead tuning.
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Post by Parkersdad Mon May 13, 2013 11:40 am

See, I have already switched and am back on the Slick Trick broadheads. Those little boogers are mean and fly well. I will also keep 1 Spitfire in my quiver.

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Post by Cbigbear Mon May 13, 2013 11:46 am

Always had great results with Slick Tricks. Now that I shoot trad I'm using mangus stringers.
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Post by Backwaters Bowhunter Mon May 13, 2013 10:58 pm

Shoot Thunderheads on my compound (they were on sale). I have also shot, Muzzy and Wasp and have been pleased with all three. I shoot Zwickey out of my longbow.
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Post by Parkersdad Sat May 18, 2013 11:32 pm

I still have a ton of original Thunderheads. I killed alot of animals with them. I may put one in my quiver this year.

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Post by Withered Oak Wed May 22, 2013 5:03 pm

My favorite broadhead was the Bear super Razorheads I used back in the late 80's and early 90's. Cut on contact, 145gr. Those things were almost indestructable. They were so heavy they flew well in just about any setup. I once shot through both front shoulder blades on a buck (shot a little too far forward Embarassed I shot regular muzzy's for a bit and they were ok, until I found the Muzzy Phantoms. 125gr cut on contact. I like em.

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Post by Spauldo Wed May 22, 2013 9:45 pm

100 gr Thunderheads and 125gr Griz Tricks (Sick Trick). Prefer the Slick Trick for flight and durability.
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Post by Saxton Thu May 23, 2013 12:45 pm

All I shoot are Muzzy. I have the practice blades that I use and the fly exactly like the hunting blades.

They fly great and hit where I am aiming.

I once used an 85 gr Wasp (I cannot remember the name) to shoot a yearling doe. When I found the arrow; all three blades sheared off going through the little doe.

Back to the Muzzy's..............

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Post by palehorse Thu May 23, 2013 8:12 pm

I have always been a Muzzy fan until this year. I bought a Limbsaver Speedzone bow that pushes 350 fps. No matter how much I tune, I just can't get the Muzzys to be consistent past 30 yds. After reading countless reviews, I gave the Cabelas lazer strike II broadheads a try. I've never been a fan of expandables, but these things are amazing. I don't think I'll ever shoot another broadhead. Very similiar to spitfires but only $19.99 for 3 and much stronger.

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Post by PineywoodsBow Thu May 23, 2013 11:28 pm

palehorse wrote:I have always been a Muzzy fan until this year. I bought a Limbsaver Speedzone bow that pushes 350 fps. No matter how much I tune, I just can't get the Muzzys to be consistent past 30 yds. After reading countless reviews, I gave the Cabelas lazer strike II broadheads a try. I've never been a fan of expandables, but these things are amazing. I don't think I'll ever shoot another broadhead. Very similiar to spitfires but only $19.99 for 3 and much stronger.

good reviews on Cabela's for the lazer strike's. I think I will try them this season as well...
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Post by SlowBow Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:58 pm

Saxton wrote:All I shoot are Muzzy. I have the practice blades that I use and the fly exactly like the hunting blades.

They fly great and hit where I am aiming.

I once used an 85 gr Wasp (I cannot remember the name) to shoot a yearling doe. When I found the arrow; all three blades sheared off going through the little doe.

Back to the Muzzy's..............

I shot a few packs of a head called Grim Reaper. They were supposed to be a "tunable" broadhead, came with a little chock key to adjust the blades. Three to a pack, and for some reason two would always fly well, and the third shot wild, way off no matter how you adjusted it. They were scary sharp, but it was the same problem you had though, super thin blades that shattered on just about everything, even cracked a blade shooting one into a block target.


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Post by minnesota_muley Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:56 pm

I am going to try Magnus Stingers in 125 grain this summer and hunt with them this fall. I've read great reviews on them. I shoot a compound, but its not overly fast, so I'm really focusing on accuracy and penetration with my setup. The Stingers are supposed to fly well and accurate and 2-blades are supposed to promote good penetration. I am going to give them a try and hopefully find out for myself.

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Post by PineywoodsBow Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:14 am

minnesota_muley wrote:I am going to try Magnus Stingers in 125 grain this summer and hunt with them this fall. I've read great reviews on them. I shoot a compound, but its not overly fast, so I'm really focusing on accuracy and penetration with my setup. The Stingers are supposed to fly well and accurate and 2-blades are supposed to promote good penetration. I am going to give them a try and hopefully find out for myself.

Thats what I used last season and you definitely get good penetration, but very little blood. I couldn't get them to fly straight either, but I think that was my bow, not the head.
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Post by minnesota_muley Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:01 am

I have been doing a lot of reading on accuracy and penetration. As with most things there is a lot of inaccurate information out there. I have basically stopped putting much stock in the individual testimonials and researching actual studies and objective research. Like you said they didn't shoot well out of your bow, so they don't work for you. I wanted to find out what actually affects accuracy and penetration and use that information to put together my broadhead/arrow setup. Because our bows all are different everybody has to find a setup that works best for them. The only way to really do that is to research the topic so you know what factors actually affect arrow accuracy and penetration, then set your bow up that way and shoot it until you find the right combination.

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Post by vortex1 Fri Jun 07, 2013 12:24 am

My go to is a vortex 100 grn, But ive shot a li bit of everything. now Muzzy's and thunderheads have both probly killed more deer than anything else out there, that being said both are equally agrevating to tune. if u shoot muzzy's, tune and prqctice with a MUZZY dont use feild tips at all because they just dont fly the same. Thunderheads are about the same way. But both are excellent fixed blade broadheads. Slick tricks are awsome we usem to kill hogs with and they do tune very well for me. Now as for my recurve bow Simmons are some bad nasty heads especially tha 190 tree sharks and this is probly all ill ever shoot out of it from here on out because they prform so well. as for My compound bow i feed my old hoyt lots of different brands but we always go back to 100grn vortex because i have found nothin else i like better. They have never failed me, i have failed them a few times but as long as i do my part they will do theirs no questions asked.
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Post by Parkersdad Fri Jun 07, 2013 8:03 am

The new Thunderheads will tune. Check them out if you have a chance. They are called the Thunderhead Razor.

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Post by hornmaster7 Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:48 pm

When I first started hunting I used Thunderheads. The past 15 years all I use are Muzzy's. They are truly "Bad To The Bone"
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Post by Parkersdad Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:51 am

I have a lot of Muzzy broadheads but could never get all of them to fly right.  I am now using Slick Trick standards and they are truly bad to the bone. I also keep a Spitfire in my quiver.  I have never killed a deer with a mechanical but I may try it this year.

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Post by hornmaster7 Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:32 pm

My buddy has talked me into trying the slick trick magnums. I shot some of his today and was cutting fletching at 40 yards! Very impressed with they flight of those heads.
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Post by TKO Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:24 pm

I've shot a lot of different broadheads out of compound bows over the years. I've always preferred heavy arrows with heavy cut on contact points but, I have shot Thunderhead 125s, 125gr Rothar Snuffers and 125 Montec G5s with good success.

Now that I am making the transition to traditional archery, I think I'll be sticking with the heavy, efoc, arrow with a heavy (160 to 200 gr) cut on contact broadhead like the Grizzly.

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Post by Wolfshead Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:25 am

I am going with 130 grain STOS on a 29.5 inch surewood shaft Douglas Fir arrow, with natural turkey feathers, off a 45#@27" Bama Hunter Longbow.
Total arrow wt is 546-8 grains.
I am looking into FOC and studying that as it seems to be better for penetration and good arrow flight.
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Post by oldfella1962 Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:22 pm

Zwickey 125 grain 2 blade out of my longbow. They sharpen up great with only a 6" file.

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Post by hoyt Fri Nov 29, 2013 12:50 am

I always liked to try to newest thing in broadheads and did for many yrs. Started out with Bear and the thin little bleeders in the early 60's, then started going for the big size heads. Back then it was Dead Heads and Goshawks so I used them.

When I switched from recurves to compounds I tried about all of them but mechanical..never shot one. Now that I'm back with recurves my quest for my perfect broadhead is over. Big..2" wide, 2-1/2" lg, 190grs., fly like darts and leave a hole like this....those snips are 8"lg. Simmons Tree Sharks.

Lets Do A Broadhead Thread Turkeybuck45w

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Post by Guest Mon Dec 02, 2013 11:56 pm

me too - simmons sharks - short - steady blood trails - often see or hear the hogs deer bears crash. We don't change heads and we don't lose animals. I like thunderheads for kids and anyone who won't perfect sharpening. When I sharpen my sharks EVERYBODY is afraid of them. The fly bullet hole perfect - but we always bare shaft tune first be it wood or aluminum. using sharks now since around 2000 - ran journeymans for 10 years before that with solid performance. worked thunderheads and anderson245 s from around 1980 to 19190 with total dependability - and bear razorheads mid 70s to 1980 or so also completely dependable.

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Toxic fan here!

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